Visiting Lansdowne Place is slightly confusing. For one thing there’s a large sign on the building calling it the Dudley Hotel. The Dudley was an old warhorse that once hosted all the big weddings and visiting cricket teams in Brighton. It is now undergoing a typical Brighton New Age rebirth as a chic boutique by the sea. Although it has been open for five months, the poor dear is still having contractions and much work remains to be done.

Despite this, I received the warmest reception I’ve ever had when registering. “You’re the one with the sexy name!” exclaimed the receptionist. It turned out that she was a real falconer who practised in Norfolk. Seeing she was in the mood, I asked for an upgrade, which I received.

My room was all aubergine and grey velveteen cushions, theatrical red drapes, bordello tassel lampshades and prints of old Brighton. But there were no hangers, and no booklet listing breakfast times — not even the number for the reception desk.

On the plus side the mainly Eastern European staff are friendly and helpful, if inexperienced. Men in black roam the building delivering ironing boards and fixed my furnace-hot towel radiator in no time.

The bar is big and again filled with the aubergine velveteen that seems to have been on sale that week. The dining room has been open only a few weeks and the food was so-so — my steak with peppercorn sauce was overflavoured.

I get the feeling that the Lansdowne will be a good hotel when it’s finished, but certainly it’s the right price at the moment and, although about a mile from the Lanes, offers the best hotel value in Brighton right now.

Bottom line: Kieran Falconer paid £79 (from www.laterooms.com) for a standard double but was upgraded to a queen double on request.

Need to know: Lansdowne Place (01273 736266, www.lansdowneplace.co.uk), Lansdowne Place, Brighton.

Sampling the fare: Two-course dinner, two glasses of wine, small bottle of water, coffee and 10 per cent service charge came to £50.

What we think: Chic and inexpensive.

Best thing: A free upgrade.

Worst thing: Mouth-burning steak.

Access all areas: Wheelchair access at side; a room for the disabled will be ready shortly.

Room: 6 out of 10.
Food: 4 out of 10.
Service: 8 out of 10.
Value: 8 out of 10.