Four Sesaons’ first country house hotel in Britain, Dogmersfield Park in
Hampshire, opened in February and is as yet a few Barbours short of the
whole shooting party. But myvisit started well. Smart top-hatted doormen
showed us into the beautiful reception hall after our easy escape from
London — 40 minutes by train to Fleet, then a ten-minute cab ride.
We had booked a room in the attractive north wing, a manor house dating from
1728, and were pleased with the comfortable L-shaped room with a small
lounge overlooking the 500-acre grounds, rolling fields leading to the
Basingstoke canal. The room was attractive and well lit, and the large
bathroom had all the trimmings, though there was no full-length mirror.
After a four-mile walk along the canal, we headed to the library for afternoon
tea, which consisted of (rather good) cake. We wanted sandwiches too, so
were directed to the bistro — where “sandwiches” meant a £14 hamburger. I
would expect a five-star hotel to offer something light and appropriate
instead of sending us chasing around the property. Bistro staff also told us
they did not take bookings for Sunday lunch, so we should turn up at 3pm and
“hope for the best”.
Dinner in the Seasons restaurant got off to a shaky start when we were given
the worst table (in a distant corner, behind a noisy family), despite being
booked weeks in advance. But when we asked to move, we were given the best
table in the room. The set menu (£32 for three courses) was excellent, with
confit of duck in white bean sauce a particular success. Still, I thought
the dining room resembled a conference hall, despite the low lighting and
spectacular flowers.
Sunday’s cooked breakfast was good — but it took an hour to arrive. The next
day the general manager rang me to apologise; there had been a power
failure. In recompense he offered me, and all affected guests, a night’s
free stay. I will be keen to see if the uneven service has improved and
whether the spa has added some much-needed wow factor, when I return.
Facilities: two all-weather tennis courts, complimentary
rackets and balls and tennis lessons for a fee, plus: pool, gym, spa, canal
boating, clay pigeon shooting, horse riding, croquet, fishing and choice of
golf courses nearby.
Bottom line: Cath Urquhart paid £372 for dinner, B&B
for two in a Grand Manor room on the introductory rate; B&B in this room
now starts at £458 for two. Other rooms start at £255.
Need to know: Chalky Lane, Dogmersfield, Hook, Hants (01252
853000, www.fourseasons.com/hampshire).
Room: 7 out of 10
Food: 8 out of 10
Service: 6 out of 10
