Opposite of Samuel Pepys in Seething Lane, a minute’s walk from the Tower of London — hidden in mist the day I stay, with Ken Livingstone’s office glowing yellow across the river — is a new hotel: Apex City of London.

Smart and well run, it is part of the stylish Apex chain, which also has three hotels in Edinburgh and one in Dundee, and plans to open in Newcastle soon in competition with nationwide four-star brands such as Malmaison, Alias and Hotel du Vin.

Reception is beyond a glass façade, steps leading to a long dark-wood counter. I’m in a “City King Room”, which costs £175; about the same as at Malmaison in nearby Clerkenwell.

The room is bachelor-pad slick: charcoal-grey carpet, giant bed, large television, sofa, a leather-and-chrome Mastermind-style swivel chair, desk, arty pictures of Tower Bridge, and a small bathroom — it’s OK, although the bath is tiny and there is no robe.

Other minor irritations include no desk lamp (apparently they are on order), slightly noisy heating and a dull view of office blocks. I also have trouble getting a wireless internet connection on my laptop, owing to “system failure”, which is swiftly fixed when I call for assistance.

Dinner at the Addendum Brasserie is excellent, however. I’m given a good table by the front window, overlooking the small, quiet square with Pepys on his plinth. My supper of pumpkin soup, followed by smoked haddock, poached egg, crispy bacon and spinach, and a glass of red wine is perfect for a winter evening. Waitressses chat pleasantly between courses.

The decor — lots of white designer chairs and tables, dim hanging spotlights — manages to be minimalist and cosy at once. A few groups of City folk are enjoying post-work get-togethers, but they’re a sophisticated lot — not downing lagers Eighties-style.

Pepys lived in Seething Lane and witnessed the Great Fire from here. What he would have made of the Apex were he alive is anyone’s guess — but it surely would have made his diary.



Bottom line: Tom Chesshyre paid £175 for his room.

What we think: Sexy in the City.

Best thing: Friendly service.

Worst thing: Tiny bath.

Sampling the fare: Three courses with wine cost about £42 a head.

Access all areas? Yes.

Need to know: Apex City of London (0845 3650000, www.apexhotels.co.uk), 1 Seething Lane, London EC3.

Food: 7 out of 10.

Room: 7 out of 10.

Service: 9 out of 10.

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