Taking the mantle from the Great Eastern Hotel was a substantial challenge,
but the Andaz hotel has more than succeeded, despite the curious name (it
means “style” in Hindi apparently).
Andaz has kept many of the features that made GEH popular – the multiple
restaurants and bars, the contemporary styling and the trendy nightlife, but
has added its own panache.
You notice the differences from the moment you enter – an immaculately-suited
receptionist approaches clasping a tablet PC and checks you in – there is a
reception desk, of sorts, if you’re a stickler for tradition, but I thought
this was more fun. He directed me to a modern leather armchair, offered me a
glass of wine and took my details.
I was then shown to my bedroom (the guidance was grateful given the hotel’s
confusing layout). The room was a simple, modern, airy space with high
ceilings, photographic art, a big window, huge gilded mirror and a few
gizmos. The receptionist stayed for a few minutes to explain the gadgets,
such as the ipod dock, refreshingly quiet air conditioning, and plasma
television, then left me alone.
The Frette linen was crisp and soft and I loved the bathroom – vast, with a
fast-fill deep bath and REN toiletries. There was also a safe, alarm clock,
bathrobe and slippers.
Usually I wouldn’t bother with in-room movies and music because of the
sky-high charges, but here everything is included in the room rate. That
means movies, music, games, laundry, internet, local calls, newspapers,
minibar water and juices, breakfast, drinks and snacks during the day and
even wine and canapés each evening in the lobby, or living room, as it’s
known by the staff.
Of course you need to give some warning on the laundry – they’ll press a shirt
in 90 minutes and return laundry by 10am if it’s been dropped off by 7pm.
But there’s no catch – I found plenty of recently released albums and movies
alongside classics and the wine and snacks in the lobby were delicious –
provided by a different one of the hotel’s restaurants each night.
The hotel has five restaurants: Miyaki – a neat sushi bar; Catch – which is
strong on fish; Eastway – a bistro; the George Pub – for British pub grub
and 1901 – the most formal one.
I had dinner in 1901, an elegant dining room that has a vast high domed
ceiling, dripping chandeliers and beautiful plaster covings and pillars. The
sommelier, Michael Baronie, started me off with a delicious rhubarb cocktail
that he said his barman had been tinkering with, then suggested an
unconventional selection of wines to go with each course.
I started with native lobster ravioli with fennel puree, which was fresh, and
tasty without being too rich, and perfectly complimented by a Reisling.
My main course of halibut was steamed and delicately served with spring
vegetables and lemon thyme. The Greco di Tufo from Campania in Italy was
Michael’s choice – both were divine. Then came my poached rhubarb with
vanilla pannacotta and rhubarb foam and puree, which was beautifully
presented, and delicious alongside a glass of Coteaux du Layon from the
Loire Valley.
I had breakfast the next morning in the same restaurant (served until 10am),
although a less formal buffet option is available in Eastway (served until
11.30am). The food again was top class – a delicate fresh fruit smoothie
(£4.50), perfect rich yellow scrambled egg and crisp hot toast. There were
also unusual additions like the cold tea smoothies (£5.50) and a tea
suggestion with each dish. The Full English, at a steep £25, included
Gloucester Old Spot pork sausages, and started with a bowl of granola.
