Vegetarians won't mind missing out on the Fox & Anchor - a recently
restored Victorian pub-with-rooms by Smithfield market.
A quick glance at the menu as we settled into green leather seats in the
pleasing gloom of the back bar, with its polished-wood partitions, snugs and
lovely old market pictures, was enough to establish that.
Starters included potted pig's head and piccalilli, chicken liver on toasted
sourdough, and Welsh rarebit. Then there were steak and oyster pies, slabs
of ham hock, chunky goose-fat chips, steak tartare, fat juicy burgers, and
thick slices of gammon.
What was the potted pig's head like? “I've never eaten it, sir,” replied the
waiter, sounding like Jeeves. Do you get a whole head? “No sir, just the
cheeks,” he said matter-of-factly, rubbing his face to indicate which bits
(a little off-puttingly).
After slurping a dozen oysters and drinking ale from glass-bottomed pewter
mugs, the pig's head was delivered in a jar, along with a piece of toast. It
tasted like shreds of very nice pork (which of course it was).
We ordered more ale. Steaks arrived - the beef, like the pig's head, having
come from Smithfield meat market. They were tender and tasty, served on
sturdy wooden boards.
The Fox & Anchor reopened this year after closing in 2006 and being
renovated to bring out the best of the old pub, long popular with early
morning market traders.
Two bigwigs behind the Malmaison hotel group bought the pub - the London
Malmaison is next door - with the intention of creating a “hops and chops,
cuvées and duvets” atmosphere.
It's worked. The leather seats, the cosy gloom, the ales, the steaks, the
oysters, the pigs' heads, were all, I felt, how a pub should be. It even
reminded me of George Orwell's 1946 article The Moon Under the Water, in
which he dreams of the perfect pub with “good solid” meals, “a soft, creamy
sort of stout” served in a “pewter pot”, and “the solid, comfortable
ugliness of the 19th century”. F&A just about fits the bill.
I checked the room. There are six, each with a name and jokey door signs that
say either “Gone to the pub” or “Nursing hangover”.
Feeling that “A little tipsy” would be quite appropriate, I entered a stylish,
modern room with a purple chaise longue, leaded windows looking out on a
restaurant called “TART”, and a bathroom with a Victorian tub.
Absolutely excellent. I slept like a log (only vaguely hearing morning market
noises), and woke feeling OK after all that ale. In the hall on the way out
there was a picture of Rock Hudson with the quotation: “I've had hangovers
before, but this time even my hair hurts.”
At least I wasn't as bad as that.
Bottom line Mystery Guest paid £193 for a double; weekend rooms from
£95
Sampling the fare About £40 a head for oysters, beer, pig's head and
steak
Best thing The pub
Worst thing Couldn't get TV to work properly
Need to know Fox & Anchor (020-7250 1300, www.foxandanchor.com),
115 Charterhouse Street, EC1 6AA
Room 8.5 out of 10
Food 9 out of 10
Service 9 out of 10
Value 6.5 out of 10
Score 8.25
PUT TO THE TEST: 20 Mystery Guest questions for... Fox & Anchor, London
EC1
1. Do rooms have kettles/coffee makers? And is there fresh milk?
Yes, with fresh coffee but not fresh milk.
2. Is there a hairdryer, and is it fixed to a wall?
Hand-held hairdryer.
3. Are coathangers metal, wooden, removable?
Removeable wooden.
4. Complimentary bottle of water?
Yes.
5. Sheets and blankets or duvets?
Duvets.
6. What about a 'pillow menu'?
No pillow choices.
7. Is lighting good enough for reading?
Yes.
8. Is there a shaving/make up mirror? And is it well lit?
No specific shaving/make up mirror, but well-lit main mirror.
9. What about the in-room entertainment system?
Plasma TV and Bose sound system.
10. Is there a temperature control panel?
Yes.
11. Do the windows open?
Yes.
12. Is there good sound-proofing?
Reasonable, though there is some market sound in the morning.
13. Is there wi-fi internet access?
Yes.
14. Is there a good place to go jogging nearby?
Not really.
15. What is the vegetarian food selection like?
"We wouldn't say it's a good place for vegetarians, but we are open to
requests from vegetarians and can make up dishes."
16. Is there baby listening/babysitting? And are children welcome at adults'
evening meals?
No baby listening, but babysitting possible.
17. Is there wheelchair access to all areas?
No.
18. Do you get a free paper in the morning?
On request.
19. Is there a pub round the corner?
There's a pub downstairs.
20. Is there free car parking? And is it secure?
No.
