There was I, thinking that the English B&B was a humdrum kind of hostelry. You know the kind of thing — a weary bed, sheets full of static and cold toast in the morning. The whole point of the place was that it was cheap; and, for the price, you couldn't expect any more. Could you? Well, if that was ever the case, it certainly isn't now. I've just completed a grand tour of what are probably England's 10 best B&Bs. They are the regional winners of this year's Excellence awards and I've stayed, mostly incognito, in every one.

It's been a very enjoyable experience. There are no duds here, and four of them are eye-poppingly good. How good? Well, let me put it this way. If this trend continues, there will soon be no need for luxury hotels. Designed with flair and confidence, run with painstaking attention to detail and offering the kind of sociable welcome that no hotel could ever match, they are a joy to stay in. Not all of them have the high-tech touches that have become commonplace in the five-star sector, but some of them do. And I can't recommend them highly enough.

And the winner is...

HOLLY LODGE, Thursford Green, Norfolk

Nowhere is the new-found ambition of Britain's B&Bs more evident than at Holly Lodge. Its keepers, Robert Greenfield and Michael Bell, have lavished an ocean of care on their 18th-century house and its accompanying annexe and created a sort of showroom for how all B&Bs might be — provided their owners had bottomless pockets and a master's degree in interior design.

The bed: it had obviously been teleported into Norfolk from the boudoir of an emperor's concubine. It was a big four-poster, buried beneath all sorts of pillows and cushions and swathed in richly coloured fabrics. The rest of the room — called, appropriately enough, Claret Cottage — was pretty lush, too, with wine-red walls, a leather sofa, a classical bust, even a wire slipper filled with chocolate mints. My only regret was that Mrs Stowy wasn't there to test its full potential with me. 10/10.

The breakfast: painstaking, imaginative and never-ending. I gave up after the fourth course, and skipped lunch. 10/10.

The decor: exquisite. 10/10.

The service: a little nervous — I think they'd guessed the reason for my visit. 8/10.

The location: in the heart of fashionable north Norfolk, with big-sky beaches and medieval Walsingham a 10-minute drive away. 9/10.

Do they do dinner? No.

Value for money: 10/10.

Does it deserve its nomination? Yes, yes, yes!

Holly Lodge (01328 878465, www.hollylodgeguesthouse.co.uk); from £40pp, B&B


ST ERVAN MANOR, Padstow, Cornwall

Planning a Cornish trip this summer? Then run to the phone and book this place now, before everyone else does. The house itself is already famous in these parts — courtesy of Betjeman's Summoned by Bells — but the B&B is new, and its ambition is lofty. What's more, they've just bagged a new recruit in the kitchen: Nathan Outlaw, who used to have a Michelin star over at the Black Pig, in Rock. Together, chef, house and location make for an irresistible combination.

The bed: big, luxurious and set in a lovely room, which was also home to a widescreen TV and DVD player. The bathroom was a tad small, but not enough to dent the overall effect. 9/10.

The breakfast: the cooked part was good, but what I really liked was the selection of fresh, ripe fruit on the buffet — quite an achievement in late March. 10/10.

The decor: more country house than beach house, which is a shame in Cornwall, but well done, and topped off with a selection of good, interesting paintings from Padstow's Blue Wing gallery. 9/10.

The service: a bit too attentive — but then I was the only one in that night, so they probably couldn't help themselves. 8/10.

The location: tucked away down Cornish lanes, just four miles from Padstow, five from Constantine Bay and 16 from the Eden Project — in other words, perfect. 10/10.

Do they do dinner? Boy, do they do dinner. I had pork belly on rhubarb with roast onion puree, roast monkfish on saffron risotto and vanilla-bean cream with orange sorbet: all of it of the highest quality, and backed up by a serious-minded wine list. Since my stay, Nathan has introduced six-course tasting menus, priced at £45 and £65.

Value for money: 9/10.

Does it deserve its nomination? Absolutely.

St Ervan Manor (01841 540255, www.stervanmanor.co.uk); from £60pp, B&B


MANOR FARM OAST, Icklesham, East Sussex

Kate Mylrea, the moving spirit behind Manor Farm Oast, met me at the door of my car with an umbrella. It was pouring with rain, I was late for dinner, and she was in the middle of cooking. No matter: she still found time to show me to my room, and iron my shirt, before wheeling out a five-course extravaganza from her kitchen. Now that's what I call service.

The bed: the pillows were a little unforgiving, but the bed was 6ft wide, and the room itself spacious enough to cope with it. It was laden with all sorts of goodies, too — including a CD player — and Kate had thoughtfully set up a small desk for me in case I wanted to work. 8/10.

The breakfast: good — but after dinner, I barely had room for it. 8/10.

The decor: eclectic and farmhousey, but a touch girlie for me — there were little bows on the lamp shades by my bed. 7/10.

The service: faultless. 10/10.

The location: down a long, quiet lane, surrounded by apple orchards. This is a great base for exploring the pretty towns of Rye and Winchelsea, as well as the wide, empty beaches at Dungeness. 9/10.

Do they do dinner? Yes — five courses cost only £25.

Value for money: 9/10.

Does it deserve its nomination? Yes.

Manor Farm Oast (01424 813787, www.rye.org.uk/establishments/manor/manor_farm_oast.htm); from £37pp, B&B


ASTER HOUSE, South Kensington, London

You have to wonder why anyone would bother running a B&B in London. With property prices so inflated, why not just flog the property and retire on the fortune?

Especially when that property is an entire house on one of the most high-falutin streets in South Kensington. This is a part of the world where prices start way above the £1m mark.

All of which makes Aster House nothing short of miraculous. Here is an establishment within 15 minutes' walk of all the best shops, restaurants and museums in west London, offering welcoming and well-kept accommodation for less than £80 per head per night. So what if the decor will never make it onto the pages of World of Interiors magazine? You're hardly going to spend your waking hours hanging about in the bedroom.

The bed: comfortable and functional, just like the room, but way short of the glories of some of this year's other properties. The bathroom did have a top-of-the-range power shower, though. 7/10.

The breakfast: what, not cooked to order? They do, however, offer several alternatives to the lukewarm sausages and scrambled eggs languishing in a heated tray — including some delicious pains au raisins. The conservatory in which they're served is a delight, too. 7/10.

The decor: welcome back to the 1980s. 5/10.

The service: friendly and efficient. 8/10.

The location: couldn't be handier for the hot spots. 10/10.

Do they do dinner? No.

Value for money: 9/10.

Does it deserve its nomination? Yes. Seen from the front steps on a sunny spring morning, London has never looked more mouth-watering.

Aster House (020 7581 5888, www.asterhouse.com); from £75pp, B&B

JINLYE, All Stretton, Shropshire

I have to admit that I didn't see Jinlye at its best. In fact, I barely saw Jinlye at all. It was dark by the time I found it, and by next morning the whole of Shropshire seemed to have been eaten by a cloud. One fact was abundantly clear, however — this is a place well off the beaten track.

The bed: shock horror! Was that a lumpy bit down by my feet? I can't say it interrupted my very sound night's sleep, but after the stellar standards set by some of this year's other entrants, it was a disappointment. So was the rather penny-pinching sign in the bathroom: "At Jinlye we have our own private water supply. Please use the water sparingly." 7/10.

The breakfast: fun and friendly — everyone eats at one big table — but a little less abundant than some. 8/10.

The decor: overall, down-to-earth and rustic in style, but there was a kind of baroque theme running in my bedroom, which felt completely out of place in rural Shropshire. 6/10.

The service: good. 8/10.

The location: a place of deep quiet in the hills above All Stretton, this is good spot for walkers, but my greatest regret is that I didn't have the time, or the weather, to enjoy Kate Tory's ravishing gardens. 9/10

Do they do dinner? No.

Value for money: 9/10.

Does it deserve its nomination? Yes — all this for the price of two West End cinema tickets and some fizzy drinks! Jinlye (01694 723243, www.jinlye.co.uk); from £30pp, B&B



THE KINGS AT IVY HOUSE, Newhaven, Derbyshire

What about the other guests? It's the age-old dilemma of the B&B experience: do you keep a respectful distance and restrict yourself to a polite “Good morning” over breakfast, or roll up your sleeves and get stuck into some proper conversation? Mervyn and Debbie King, the owners of Ivy House, have no doubts about which side of the etiquette fence they’re on.

Debbie cooks a first-class dinner here, and over aperitifs beforehand, everyone is introduced, properly, and expected to talk. There’s no avoiding it: the meal is eaten at one big table, so if it’s privacy you’re after, you should go some-where else.

It would be a shame, though. Ivy House seems to attract a bright, sociable crowd, and the house-party atmosphere adds enormously to the experience.

The bed: big and firm. The room was a good size, too, though I could have done with a little more elbow space in the bathroom, and a more powerful shower. 7/10.

The breakfast: first place in my Full English Hall of Fame. 10/10.

The decor: Ivy House is a big old stone farmhouse, and the Kings have made it bright and cheerful without smothering its character. Strong colours and big sofas abound. 8/10.



The service: there’s no pussyfooting around here, and you’re thankful for it. 9/10.



The location: on the main road between Buxton and Ashbourne, with many of the Peak District’s best walks and prettiest villages nearby. Double glazing cuts out most of the traffic noise — the road only gets busy during rush hour. 9/10.



Do they do dinner? Yes — and it’s included in the price.



Value for money: 9/10.



Does it deserve its nomination? Yes.


The Kings at Ivy House (01298 84709, www.smoothhound.co.uk/hotels/kingsivy.html); from £56pp, half-board

SEABREEZE GUEST HOUSE, Blackpool, Lancashire

One of the best things about this tour was the way it took me to so many of England’s pin-up destinations: north Cornwall, Berwick and North Yorkshire, to name a few. So it was a bit of a shock to find myself, one grey evening, stretching my legs on the seafront in Blackpool.

I’m not sure how many readers of this section will be contemplating a rejuvenating break in the nation’s Kiss Me Quick capital, but just in case some of you are, make a note of Seabreeze. Like Bessiestown, below, it falls into the traditional rather than the boutique c but, like Bessiestown, it’s well run, friendly and astonishingly good value.



The bed: functional rather than luxurious, but I slept deeply in it — and was blasted awake the next morning by an excellent power shower. 7/10.



The breakfast: vast. The sausages need improving, but otherwise it can’t be faulted for range, choice or quantity. 9/10.

The decor: fresh, flowery and bright — though they should probably sling out the green sofa in room 1, where I slept. 7/10.



The service: a delight. 9/10.



The location: a block from the seafront, at the quieter, northern end ... of Blackpool. 5/10.



Do they do dinner? No.



Value for money: 10/10.



Does it deserve its nomination? Yes.





Seabreeze Guest House (01253 351427, www.vbreezy.co.uk); from £25pp, B&B







THE MOORLANDS, Levisham, North Yorkshire

No chance of anonymity here. “Hello, Walter!” piped Gill Leonard, hostess at the Moorlands Country House, when I walked in. “How nice to see you. Again.” You see, this wasn’t the first time I’d stayed at The Moorlands. It was up for the same prize in 2003, and I reviewed it then — Gill recognised my name from her cuttings file.

No wonder it’s doing so well. Gill and husband Ron run a fine house: big without being snooty, painstaking without being fussy. Just be sure to book well ahead. The Leonards have a fanatically loyal customer base, and two weeks ago they were fending off inquiries about Christmas.



The bed: a little soft for my taste, but by design rather than because of its age, and made with top-notch linen. Both bathroom and bedroom were spotless, though they lacked some of the high-tech touches of their competitors. 8/10.



The breakfast: one of the best. My full English included a choice of duck or chicken eggs from the garden, served with the accompaniment of a sensational view. 9/10.



The decor: Gill has pulled off quite a trick, creating a look that’s perfectly attuned to the 19th-century architecture, but manages to be bright, fresh and luxurious, too. 9/10.



The service: chatty and welcoming. I’m not surprised there’s a fan club. 9/10.



The location: perfectly placed for days out in Whitby or yomping over the North York Moors. 10/10.



Do they do dinner? Yes, and it’s as good as the breakfasts. Three courses for £25.



Value for money: 10/10.



Does it deserve its nomination? Of course it does — and it will probably deserve another in 2007, too.







The Moorlands Country House (01751 460229, www.moorlandslevisham.co.uk); from £50pp, B&B








BESSIESTOWN FARM, Catlowdy, Cumbria

They used to call this part of the world the “debatable land”, and back in the days when England v Scotland meant a lot more than a rugby match, there was no more lawless a spot in either kingdom. Even now, in the middle of a spring cold snap, with sleet in the air and the lambs cowering behind their mothers, it feels well beyond the reach of civilisation.

So it was a surprise to find as hospitable a spot as Bessiestown. Tucked right up against the Scottish border, just north of the Roman wall, it’s a no-nonsense take on the genre, outclassed by the likes of Holly Lodge and No 1 Sallyport, but well run and welcoming — provided you can handle the decor.



The bed: a little smaller than most, but comfortable and made up with good linen. The room was a decent size, as was the sparkling bathroom next door, but neither was a place I wanted to linger, thanks to the roses (see below). 7/10.



The breakfast: a classic. Locally made black pudding, meaty Cumberland sausage and some of the thickest rashers of bacon I’ve ever eaten. 8/10.

The decor: in a word, scary. My room had been subjected to a pink rose motif almost messianic in its fervour. There were pink roses on the pillows, on the duvet cover, on the bedstead, on the curtains, on the lamp shades, on the tablecloths, even, for goodness’ sake, on the loo-brush holder in the bathroom. A few real roses in a flowerpot would have made the same point rather more effectively. 5/10.

The service: unpretentious and charming. 8/10.

The location: at the very limits of England. Wild country, with only wondrous Hadrian’s Wall for company. 8/10.

Do they do dinner? Yes: two courses cost £15. I had some good lamb and an excellent home-made apple pie.

Value for money: 8/10.

Does it deserve its nomination? Aside from the decor, yes.

Bessiestown Farm Country Guest House (01228 577219, www.bessiestown.co.uk); from £32.50pp, B&B



No 1 SALLYPORT, Berwick-upon-Tweed, Northumberland

I was on my way to my room on the top floor when Elizabeth Middlemiss showed me her suite, The Smugglers. Wow. I’d never seen anything like it in a B&B before: a huge room, lit by big windows and home to an oversized sofa, a widescreen television, a DVD player and all manner of artful flourishes. The curtains appeared to be made of suede. Suede! “How much?” I cried. “Well, it’s a bit more expensive,” she admitted, “£95 a night, including breakfast.” “How much?” In London or New York, a room like that would set me back £400. “Including breakfast,” Elizabeth ventured. Now I know that in order to test the true mettle of an establishment, a reviewer should check in to the cheapest room. But I’m sorry, readers. I failed.

The bed: as much a throne as a place to sleep — home to a big leather headboard, oversized pillows and expensive linen. The accompanying bathroom was a treat, too: my morning shower was heavier than an Amazon rainstorm. 10/10.

The breakfast: there’s a wide range of cooked dishes (I had eggs benedict) as well as home-made bread and jams. 9/10.

The decor: the other rooms were also gorgeous. 10/10.

The service: easy-going and intelligent. Elizabeth knows when to leave you in peace, too. 9/10.

The location: probably the best-preserved historic town in Britain, Berwick should by rights be a Unesco World Heritage Site. Within three minutes of leaving Sallyport’s front door, you’ll be standing on the medieval walls, looking out across the mouth of the River Tweed. 10/10.

Do they do dinner? Yes, but not on the night I stayed there. The “rustic Provençal suppers” cost £29.50 a head.

Value for money: 10/10.

Does it deserve its nomination? You bet — I thought I’d died and gone to heaven, or at the very least to the top floor of a luxury Manhattan hotel.



No1 Sallyport (01289 308827, www.sallyport.co.uk); from £37.50pp, B&B

During his tour, Walter F Stowy drove a car provided by National Car Rental (0870 400 4560, www.nationalcar.co.uk). Special three-night weekend rental packages from National currently start at £47

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