The Swallows and Amazons did it before breakfast. Rupert Brooke and the
Bloomsbury set did it after tea. Our great-grandparents did it whenever it
was hot. Wild swimming is the simple art of bathing in rivers, lakes and
waterfalls, and its popularity is soaring.
If the weather cheers up this weekend, try it and you’ll understand why. Dive
into a swimming hole, water rushing over you like in a spa, then clamber out
to dry on warm rocks afterwards; or slide into a lowland river and drift
downstream with the lazy current, staring at the sky and looking forward to
your picnic on the lawns. You’ll find your stresses have washed away with
the ripples.
Wild swimming is an adventure, far removed from the noise, chlorine and
bacteria of a leisure-centre pool. Thankfully, our rivers are cleaner and
more accessible than at any time in living memory. In Britain, a country of
lakes, dales and vales, we are simply spoilt for choice. So, if you haven’t
taken the plunge yet, where do you start?
I’ve spent the past five years researching 150 wildswimming spots across the
country, and each one has its own charm. Here’s my personal top 10. Pick one
and dive in – I can assure you, the water’s beautiful.
1 BEST FOR LEGENDS
Cornwall Hidden in a valley only a few miles from the Arthurian castle of
Tintagel, you’ll find an extraordinary double waterfall with a cascade that
pours through a perfect man-sized doughnut hole. The upper pool is out of
reach, but the lower “kieve” (pool in Cornish) is deep enough for an
exhilarating and exorcising plunge. It was here that King Arthur is said to
have brought his knights to be baptised before their quest for the Holy
Grail. The modern-day guardians of the site, who run a tiny teashop in the
woods above, don’t mind you bathing as long as it is done with sincerity and
respect. Hundreds of coloured ribbons give the cavern a fluttering glow –
like swimming on a pagan May Day.
From the village of Trethevey, follow footpath signs for St Nectan’s Kieve
chapel and waterfall; near Tintagel.
Grid ref: SX 081885; postcode: PL34 0BE
2 BEST FOR SKINNY-DIPPING
Dartmoor The Dart is the setting for Charles Kingsley’s The Water Babies and
it is one of the most beautiful wildswimming rivers in Britain. In a deep
gorge far upstream of Newbridge, lying on the flat, hot rocks by a gurgling
river, you are miles from anywhere. Dense woodland tumbles down the side of
the moor, a light spray lifts off the water and the forest twitters with
birdsong. This is a place made for lazy picnics and sunny afternoons. With
miles of river to choose from, and not a soul in sight, why not become a
water babe yourself and swim free?
The most remote river pools are midway between Newbridge and Dartmeet, on the
moors above Buckfastleigh. From either village, follow the faint river path
through the woods for at least two miles.
Grid ref: SX 697717; postcode: TQ13 7RS
3 BEST FOR OLDER CHILDREN
North Somerset Many of our best-loved lowland swimming holes are above old
stone weirs built hundreds of years ago for fishing or mills. While modern
concrete working weirs on big rivers are a no-go, these older structures
create large pools and make swimming possible on rivers that might not
otherwise be deep enough – generations of children learnt to swim in pools
like these. Claverton Weir, near Bath, is my favourite, forming a low,
meandering waterfall across the Avon and a great lagoon-like lake above it,
dappled with balsam and willows. More than 100yd long, it was built in 1810
to lift water from the river to the nearby Kennet and Avon Canal. On a hot
summer day, the air is filled with ozone from the cascading water. Older
children play along the top, diving into the pool or climbing down the
waterfall wall. Younger kids can stick to the shallow beach or the wide
meadow that adjoins.
Follow the A36 out of Bath and park in Claverton village. Walk down Ferry
Lane, cross the railway to a field and find the weir on the right.
Grid ref: ST 792643; postcode: BA2 7BH
4 BEST FOR A LONG DIP
South Dorset The Dorset Stour is one of England’s iconic rural rivers. It was
here that Thomas Hardy and his wife, Emma, spent their happiest years
walking, writing and swimming through rolling countryside. Upstream from
Pamphill the river opens up in wonderful, wide meanders. Last summer, I
floated downstream for miles on a sun-dappled current. Mayflies danced
around and fronds of water buttercup tickled my toes. I lay on my back,
staring at the sky, and I was as happy as a frog on his lily pad.
Follow the path upstream from the small car park outside Pamphill village,
near Wimborne Minster.
Grid ref: ST 996001; postcode: BH21 4EE
5 BEST FOR LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS
Cambridge Take tea in Grantchester or eat strawberries from your punt and
enjoy a stretch of river that has changed little since Edwardian times. It
was here that Rupert Brooke, Virginia Woolf and a legion of other brilliant
minds gathered to camp, picnic and swim naked. On a hot summer day, the
languid mile-long stretch of river is still dotted with leisurely Pimm’s
parties. Punts and canoes glide by, some heading downstream towards
Cambridge’s famous Backs, others upstream to the Orchard tea gardens. At
intervals you hear another splash as someone decides to cool off. Paradise
Pool is a narrow wooded area on the edge of town at the top end of the
meadows, with a curly tree ideal for diving, but anywhere along this stretch
is good for swimming, particularly on the outside of the bends where the
river deepens to more than 6ft. Be warned, though: while the river is clear,
clean and warm, the banks and bed are squelchy.
From Cambridge station it’s a 20-minute walk across town to the top end of the
meadows, or drive to Grantchester village (www.orchard-grantchester.com).
Grid ref: TL 440568; postcode: CB3 9JJ
6 BEST FOR SNORKELLING
North Wales The disused quarries of North Wales often fill with clear blue
water and appear like cobalt jewels glinting on the mountainside. Tiny
deposits of copper limit algae growth and help give the waters an ethereal
azure hue and perfect Mediterranean clarity. This lake, known locally as the
Blue Lagoon, requires a 300ft scramble down into a volcano-like
crater. Enormous cliffs and huge slabs rise all around and the waters are
incredibly deep. Snorkelling through the water, peering into the blue abyss
below, you swim over an aquatic lunar landscape deep enough to induce
swimmer’s vertigo. Not for the fainthearted.
The old quarries are a 500yd walk uphill from the Ponderosa Cafe on the A542
from Llangollen to Ruthin.
Grid ref: SJ 185477; postcode: LL20 8DR
7 BEST FOR FAMILIES
Yorkshire Dales The Wharfe, at the southern end of the Yorkshire Dales and
only a stone’s skim from Bolton, Leeds and Burnley, is one of the most
popular swimming rivers in Britain. Grassington, Burnsall and Appletreewick
are all good spots, but for the real Costa del Yorkshire, head for Bolton
Abbey. The great ruins sit on a bend of the river above a perfect pebbly
beach. Upstream, it’s deep enough for swimming; downstream, shallow enough
for paddling and stone-skimming. Such a fantastic combination of water,
landscape and antiquity pulls the crowds, but thankfully there’s room for
everybody’s picnic.
Bolton Abbey is off the A59, near Skipton. For less crowded swimming villages,
keep driving on the B6160.
Grid ref: SE 075542; postcode: BD23 6AL
8 BEST FOR SCENERY
Lake District When I first saw Wastwater, the sun was falling in golden pools
in a small bay. Steep white scree slopes plunged 1,500ft on the opposite
shore. Grimy from a day of driving, I dived into the cool, instantly
refreshing water. As I swam over the white quartz lake bed, small clumps of
freshwater grass were soon waving beneath me and the mountains of Whin Rigg
and Illgill Head rippled in broken reflections around. Wastwater is a
fantastic lake for swimming. There are many little white bays along its
three-mile length, and a great pub at Wasdale Head. From here you can even
try climbing Scafell Pike, the highest peak in England.
Wastwater is at the far west of the Lakes, off the A595 coast road between
Barrow-in-Furness and Cockermouth. Follow signs for the Wasdale Head Inn
(019467 26229). A small road runs along the side of the lake.
Grid ref: NY 168069; postcode: CA20 1EX
9 BEST FOR JUMPING
Northumberland On the edge of the Cheviot hills, the celebrated Linhope Spout
is a high flume that falls into a perfect cylindrical plunge pool renowned
for its unfathomable depth. Popular with walkers and families cooling off in
the summer, there is a fun 6ft ledge from which you can jump, though the
most daring climb higher. Many stand for hours trying to summon up the
courage, but as any old hand will explain, you should make your decision to
jump long before you climb up for the real thing. Complete a thorough
reconnaissance beforehand, including water depth and obstructions, then
clear your mind and step out.
From Ingram, near Powburn on the A697, continue 2½ miles to the end of the
road. Linhope Spout is signposted along a one-mile walk through open
country.
Grid ref: NT 959171; postcode: NE66 4LZ
10 BEST FOR MONSTERS
Scottish Highlands Scotland has the most fantastic selection of lochs, glens
and burns. The tradition of going for a wild swim or “dook” is well
established, and there’s no more famous dooker than Nessie herself. The
famous ruins of Urquhart Castle are the most impressive place to dip, but to
avoid the crowds and coaches, walk up the road before dropping down through
a steep field of yellow mullein to reach a peaceful section of the shoreline
in a bay opposite the castle. As you swim out, you have a fish’s-eye view up
to the battlements, but keep an eye on what’s below you, too...
Urquhart Castle is near Drumnadrochit (A82). Approach the shoreline through
fields about 500yd north of the visitors’ car park.
Grid ref: NH 530288; postcode: IV63 6TU
Wild Swimming: 150 Hidden Dips in the Rivers, Lakes and Waterfalls of
Britain by Daniel Start, published by Punk at £14.95, is the first guidebook
to Britain’s freshwater swimming holes. To buy it for the reduced price of
£13.45, inc p&p in the UK, call The Sunday Times BooksFirst on 0870
165 8585.
Find out more and share your own favourite swimming places at www.wildswimming.co.uk
How to be wild and safe
- Wear footwear if you can
- Never swim alone and keep a constant watch on weak swimmers
- Always make sure you know how you will get out before you get in
- Avoid contact with blue-green algae, a powdery scum found on some lake edges
in summer
- Never swim in canals, urban rivers, stagnant lakes or reedy shallows, and
keep cuts and wounds covered with waterproof plasters
Just realised that we only have access to 2% of the riverways in england and wales. Perhaps I should take my new kayak to downing street and ask where I should put it ?
barrie, bridgend, wales
As kids we did this in many rivers and lakes around the Cleveland - North Yorks areas. We even swam in the notoriously dirty , then, lower River Tees. Great Fun.
It's possibly because I gathered many immunities then I still never get coughs, colds or any other minor ailments.
Play safe + have fun!
Craeg, Huntingdon,
BEST FOR OLDER CHILDREN - "On a hot summer day, the air is filled with ozone from the cascading water." Ozone is made to sound romanticaly desierably in this piece. Surely if there is Ozone present the river should be avouided as Ozone is linked to severe respiratory conditions!
Mike, Poole, UK
"Wild swimming" is not for the squeamish - most feshwater in the UK is infested with little leeches and any dip involved 10 minutes de-leeching afterwards! Swimmers , like canoeists, also need to be aware of leptospirosis (Weil's disease)
Lorelei, Hereford, England
Enjoy it now before the H&S wombles ban this too!
I would add one thing to the "How to be safe" list - never jump into water you haven't already swum in and checked out for hazards. I've still got the scars on my feet.
Lake Zurich is currently only 12C but warming up fast...
Mark, Zurich, Switzerland
I say!
Is this not encouraging irresponsible behaviour on the part of the citizens of this country? After all, who would be responsible if someone got hurt?
~cough~
Raving from Raunds
Phil Austin, RAUNDS, Northants